I feel like Byron Bay is the happy medium between crazy Surfer’s Paradise and relaxing Coolangatta. The beaches are perfect and the hiking is great. A person could spend the day relaxing at a cafe, or partying until dawn at the Cheekie Monkey. Something for everyone.
The Nomads hostel I stayed at was loud and party oriented and completely impersonal. But with hundreds of backpackers staying at the hostel, each nightly event was sure to be a big one.
My first evening there I got dragged into VIP night at the Cheekie Monkey pub down the street. $5 dinners and no line. Okay fine. I met an English Girl named Hayley who had also just arrived and the two of us set out towards cheap food and more chaos than we had expected…
Cheekie Monkeys is the be all end all of backpacker bars. They have cheap food, drink specials, thousands of dollars worth of prizes to give away, and some sort of event occurring every 20 minutes: for those with extreme ADD. Raffles. Speed Dating. Bikini Contests. Table Dancing. Any kind of bar game you could imagine. They gave away free skydiving vouchers. $300 worth of hard cash. Trips to the Whit Sundays. People were winning prizes, getting involved, or in Hayley and my case, getting dragged into being involved. We just barely escaped the speed dating round, only to be pulled up on stage with the three other girls we were with for some unknown contest. Oh god.
“This is a very easy game ladies and gentleman!” Said the guy on the mic “you ladies don’t have to worry about a thing!”
Right there I knew he was probably lying.
“All you have to do is find things that I ask for and bring them back to me”
Okay. Seems simple enough. Only rule was, you couldn’t get it from yourself.
And luckily it was that easy. A two dollar coin… Check. An unused condom… Check. A girl’s bra… Check. A sock… Check. A pint of water… Check.
Each one was done one at a time. Each item supposedly slightly harder to get than the last. The last person to bring up the item was disqualified, then the remaining were given another task.
“Okay!” Said the announcer “now that you have everything, I want you to take the bra, and put it on over your clothes. Then take the sock, and put it over the water glass. Then, through the sock, you have to chug ALL the water in the glass! First person to do so, wins a $400 dollar voucher for skydiving. GO!”
It was cruel. The socks were worn by dirty, smelly backpackers that had been sweating and dancing all night. Who knows when the last time those socks were washed! I thanked my lucky stars I had been forced out on the last round. But the four girls I was with were the last survivors. And they did very well…
After only a little hesitation, all four girls started chugging the water back through the socks. The girl who finished first choked back at the end and all the water came spewing out her nose. The crowd’s cheer was deafening. It was going to be one of those nights.
Welcome to Cheekie Monkeys: my first impression of Byron Bay…
Author Archives: hilarylust
Coolangatta
I knew I was going to love Coolangatta the SECOND I got off the bus. The beaches were gorgeous (and swimmable), the entire promenade was filled with cafe’s, funky restaurants and was perfectly geared toward people watching.
Coolangatta is a lot smaller and a lot more laid back than Surfers. The backpacker average age was actually out of the teens, and everybody just wanted to have fun and surf. I loved it.
The hostel I stayed at was called Komune. By far one of the nicest hostel’s I’ve stayed at. It reminded me of a tropical resort more than a backpackers. Our room had a balcony that overlooked the huge pool and bar area AND had a gorgeous ocean view. The pool had big blue lounge cushions that you could suntan the day away on. The bar had nightly events and parties that you could join, or just watch from the balcony above. The place was fantastic!
I stayed in a ten person dorm, and everyone (in separate groups) was from South America: Chileans, Brazilians, Argentineans, aaaand a guy from Spain. Some spoke English better than others, but in the end, my Spanish conversational skills were better than having 9 people struggle through English. I had all but thought my Spanish was forgotten after two years of not speaking a single word. But it turns out I’m still pretty good! Who knew I’d come all the way to Australia and have to know a language other than English?
I spent a day longer in Coolangatta than I had intended. I spent the days hiking along the beaches, eating at all the various restaurants in the area and reading in the shade or watching the surfers. It was idyllic!
When Monday came along I actually found a spot to watch the Super Bowl! A little sports bar at the Twin Towns Hotel was playing it, and although only half the pub filled up, it was exciting to see Seattle kick some ass!
But after three relaxing days in the town, it was time to move along to bigger places. Next stop: Byron Bay!
Surfer’s Paradise
My last couple days in Brisbane were a lot more relaxing. An evening making tacos and catching up with Sandy, and a day of moving Gina into her new place. Then sadly it was time to say goodbye to everyone.
Next stop Surfer’s Paradise.
Originally I was meant to go to Noosa. Unfortunately, the cyclone that has been terrorizing Northern Queensland meant that most people were camping out in Noosa until the weather cleared. There was zero accommodation in the town and the cheapest out of town spot was $80/night. Well beyond my backpacker budget. So Surfer’s it was!
Surfer’s Paradise is strange. I don’t really know how to describe it. It’s a small town with huge skyscrapers. It’s a long sweeping beach, that stretches as far as the eye can see, and 90% of the water is unswimable due to currents and lack of life guards. The town center is full of cute cafe’s, restaurants, and a million pubs, nightclubs and strip bars. The place is full of characters that put “Walmart People” to shame, and it’s a very popular tourist destination to get rowdy and drunk for as long as you intend to stay. The name “Surfer’s Paradise” is definitely misleading. Yes, you can surf there, but paradise? Maybe not so much.
Don’t get me wrong. I had a blast in Surfers. I met some crazy new friends, went out on the town, and felt like I was 19 again (aka the average age of everyone in the city). But I’m not sure I could handle the place much longer than that.
The hostel that I stayed at had the ins and outs of all the best party spots for every night of the week. Ladies nights offered free drinks from 9 to midnight. Beer pong competitions were held each evening in the courtyard. Happy hour at the hostel bar meant chaos between 6 and 7 each night. The place was madness.
On my third evening I desperately needed a quiet night. The night before I had spent galavanting around Surfer’s for nightly specials with a young girl from Amsterdam until well into the morning… Proving to the world that even at 27 I can keep up with the best (Yup, still got it!). But that’s where my “keeping up” ended… Movie night in for me!
Sadly, in Surfer’s that’s never the case. Before I knew it I was having a beer and a BBQ with a couple of Welsh guys. Then I had to prove my Canadianism at beer pong against two insane Kiwi guys and an Aussie. From there a group of us wound up at a place called “Infinity”.
It took some convincing to get me to leave the hostel.
“I am not going to some sketchy nightclub called infinity with you boys” I exclaimed defiantly.
“Hilary, it’s NOT a nightclub! It’s a weird maze that has lights and stuff”
That made no sense to me.
But after an even more obscure explanation, they had peaked my interest enough to go.
So after quite a walk, splitting up, getting lost, being told the wrong direction 100 times, we ended up at this strange place called infinity.
We left as 7 and ended up as 2. Craig and I had lost everyone else, but decided to see what this thing was all about.
Turns out it was awesome.
I don’t even know how to explain it; it was like a maze with lights and stuff! You had to put on glowing white gloves and walk into total darkness. From there you were moved through an endless maze of strange illusions. A room of mirrors, a hallway that looked like it had no floor, a giant black room that had sparkling lights that we could not, for the life of us, get out of.
Of course, I was stuck with the drunkest man on earth. Craig had never played beer pong before, so when he and his friend Jordan asked to join us, we had no idea how serious they would take it. Instead of filling their solo cups only a little full with beer, these crazy Kiwi guys filled their cups to the brim, half with goon and the other half with bourbon and coke. In two games your team should drink the equivalent of 4 beers. These guys had downed 8 cups of goon and 18 cans of bourbon coke… They were absolute disasters. And that my friends, was who I had to help get through a maze of lights and darkness. I swear it took us twice as long to get through the maze: 45 minutes from start to finish. With us being PRETTY certain we were going to end up in the sparkly room until the end of time. But we stumbled out three quarters of an hour later in fits of laughter to find the rest of the boys waiting for us on the other side.
From there I split off from the Kiwi’s to have a quieter pint at an Irish Pub down the road with two of the guys. Even that turned into another 3am night in the end.
So much for my movie night…
When I woke up in the morning, Craig and Jordan were 12 beers deep between them. They don’t remember getting home, but according to the police report, Craig had been arrested for peeing in public shortly after 3am.
“You guys are too much!” I said, exhausted just looking at them.
“You boys have fun, I’m off to find somewhere a little more relaxing” Time to get OUT of Surfers!
So I hopped on a bus and went to Coolangatta!
Australia Day
“Ginaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!!!” I yelled from the couch towards the bedroom. “It’s Australia Day! Get up! Let’s party!”
I heard unimpressed groans coming from the bedroom. Why did we party so hard the night before?
I rolled off the couch and leaped into her bed to join her.
“Let’s go to the cockroach races!!” I exclaimed as she turned over to face me.
To be honest, I don’t know how I had any energy that morning. Maybe I was truly THAT excited about racing cockroaches. Maybe I was still drunk from the night before. Either way, before I knew it, we were up, showered, decked out in Aussie tattoos and walking towards Story Bridge Hotel for a feed and some celebrations.
It was about a half hour walk to the bar. When we arrived, our initial adrenaline had worn off and we were just tired and hungry. Food took 45 minutes to arrive, and up until that point we didn’t feel like socializing. Definitely not with anyone else, and hardly with each other. But when food came, and we got back to beer, we both perked up enough to enjoy the afternoon.
For Australia Day, the Story Bridge Hotel turns its entire parking lot into an all ages beer garden. The place has costume competitions, music, lots of places to buy beer, and of course, the infamous cockroach races…
You could buy and bet on cockroaches that were then placed into a giant ring and let loose. I have no idea how they keep track of the winners, or how they catch the first, second and third place cockroaches before they go skittering into the feet of the crowds, but it sure is entertaining!
I was surprised that the race was over so fast (with each race lasting about 1.5 seconds). But I suppose the real fun is listening to the screams of people as 40ish cockroaches scamper over the edge of the ring and into the crowds. Sadly for the little cockroaches, they have a crowd lifespan of about 15 seconds before someone squashes them. But with a parking lot full of drinking Aussies, it made for a fun afternoon!
When the evening rolled around and we started getting hungry, Gina and I strolled across Story Bridge to a party at her friend Anita’s place. There they were listening to the top 100 count down and having a big BBQ. “A true Australian Day” as everyone kept saying to me.
Anita’s place was beautiful. Right on the river, overlooking the bridge and the city… A view I could NEVER in a million years afford in Vancouver. The food was plentiful, the company was fantastic, and the beers continued well into the night. ‘Straya Day. Check!
Markets, Modern Art and Music
Saturday Morning Gina and I headed out to the West End markets for brekkie. I love a good market, and despite the rain, the West End markets did not disappoint. Filled with food stalls and clothing shops and fresh produce, the most difficult thing about the markets was deciding WHAT to get!
In the end, we gorged ourselves on feta and spinach flatbreads and bought as much fresh fruit as we could carry for breakfast over the next couple days. The fresh fruit here in Australia is second to none! I have never had an avocado so delicious. The apricots are to die for and the mangos are exquisite! Not to mention, they’re usually cheaper than at home!
Once we’d bought the entire market out of fresh fruits, we made our way down to the Museum of Modern Art. The day was rainy, so we figured we could do some indoor touristy things for a change.
Museums aren’t usually my number one destination when I hit a city, but I actually had a blast in the weird and wacky Brisbane Modern Art Museum. The exhibition that was going on was spectacular. Strange taxidermy style collections of animals round a watering hole. Wolves flying through the air and dead trees that filled the entire length of the museum hallways.
There were some stupid things as well. Like a video of two brothers chewing gum set on loop. But for the most part we found everything fairly entertaining!
A room filled with Dr. Seuss-like white trees was one of our favourites. Made me feel like I was in a warm and fuzzy winter wonderland! We laughed and stumbled our way around for a couple hours until the sun popped out again.
Then we made our way back to Gina’s for a couple beers and to get ready for the evening.
The evening’s activities were pre-drinks at Nick’s place with the boys and then out to Ric’s pub in the Valley to watch Nick’s friend’s band Mar Haze play. Not only was the band incredible, and totally laid back in true Aussie style, it was even more fun to catch up with Nick again and relive our African tales.
As it happens when Gina and I go out however, the night became a later one than expected. With us jumping into a cab after a couple too many vodkas well past midnight. Just a precursor to our Australian Day celebrations that would be starting in T-minus 7 hours…
Brisbane
When I landed in Brisbane it was monsooning. Gina was incredible and left in the middle of work to get me from the airport.
“Oh my god!!!! You’re in Australia!!!” She screamed at me as I hopped in the car. After only knowing each other for three weeks in Africa, I knew Gina and I would meet again somewhere around the world. And sure enough, 8 months later, here I am in Brisbane with her!
We couldn’t even see out the windshield as we drove down the roads. The rain was bucketing down similar to my entire five days in Cairns.
“When did it start getting stormy here?” I asked
“Today” said Gina.
Obviously. I’ve been bringing the rain with me all around Australia it seems.
Unfortunately, my initial meet up with Gina was short lived. She had to go back to work, so instead of hanging around an empty house, she dropped me off at the train station where I attempted to find my way to the Oxley suburb to meet up with my friend Jess.
Two trains and a half hour later I found the station. I was lucky too. Some of the stations were closed due to flash flood warnings and the train bypassed them on the way through. Thankfully, Oxley wasn’t one of those.
A few minutes after I arrived at the station I saw Jess come over the hill towards me. Actually, I hardly recognized her. No rain jacket, no shoes, hair matted to her face from the rain… Jess was a sight for sore eyes.
“Oh my god!! Where is your coat?!” I asked
“Don’t have one!” She gave me a big wet hug. Jess and I used to work together back in Vancouver. She was on a working visa there, but after reapplying twice for a second visa, she was finally denied and sent back to Brisbane. That was only a few short months ago. Saying goodbye to her then was hard, but I already figured I’d make it to Australia in the New Year, so I’d make sure to spend some time with her.
We picked up some wine and food at the nearby woolworths. Jess made puddles all over the supermarket so we tried to move along quickly.
When we arrived back at her place we were drenched. Well, we figured, no better time to go for a swim!
So Jess and I, and her roommates Dave and Pepper hopped in the pool for a swim and a game of volleyball with their puppy Biscuit. Biscuit of course was the winner in the end.
That evening we spent catching up over good wine and good food. A classic Hilary and Jess evening. And in the morning, the rains had significantly slowed to a light shower.
That day we went to explore the city. I actually think Brisbane is a very pretty city. A mix of European style architecture with a tropical twist. The city center is not that large, and so we wandered up and down the streets, grabbing sushi to go for lunch and heading down to the botanical gardens where Jess pointed out all the weird bird species and I snuck up on a big bearded dragon.
From there we followed the Brisbane River back along the city’s edge until Jess had to go to work. I continued on, walking all across town to West End to meet Gina after work.
Although we had glorious plans to head out on the town that night, the two of us were much more easily convinced to order fish and chips and watch Jake Gyllenhal movies well into the night instead. A winning decision if I do say so myself, as the next couple of days were going to be big ones!
Margaret River Camping
The next couple days in Perth were a blur of awesome. More BBQ’s, movie evenings with the roomies, long days spent in the surf, and a day long concert on the beach with Kiwi band Fat Freddy’s Drop. Perth was quickly becoming a new favourite!
Then came Monday, and Kelsi, Dan, Glen and I decided to road trip to Margaret River for some camping. We hopped in the car with breakfast and a latte and started the drive by 8am.
The coastline in Western Australia is reminiscent of our road trip through South Africa… Aka: spectacular. The surf is incredible, the whole place is lined with well kept vineyards, and Kangaroos can be spotted under trees along the way! (Although the only one I saw was dead on the side of the road…) we stopped at a few viewing points on our way down, and a quick dip and some Sunshine in Gas Bay. The waves in the area are much more suited to surfing than swimming, but it was nonetheless entertaining to see Dan and Glen getting nailed by the surf and rolling to shore.
From Gas Bay we went into the little town of Margaret River for some lunch and camping essentials (three bags of buns, a roll of toilet paper, ice, 60 beers and some atrocious white trash outfits from the thrift shop… We were really going all out).
We were just minutes away from camp and could already taste the icy Emu beers we were going to have, when we blew a tire. Great.
We pulled over on the side of the road, and sure enough, the back left tire was completely flat. So we piled out and had to remove ALL our camping gear from the trunk to reach the spare tire. Took us about 20 minutes to change the tire, and make sure the cooler was full to the brim with ice and bevvies! Then we carried on our way.
The campsite cost $10 per person and was to be paid in cash at the reception. Pick your campsite. Then go pay. That was the routine.
So we drove around the corner, picked a nice spot, well away from everyone else, and Kelsi and I collected the cash. The problem was, when we arrived, signs pointed to the campsite being an alcohol free zone. With 60 beers in the cooler, this clearly wasn’t our plan.
“You girls go pay. Play the foreign card, smile, and no one will think to check on us if we keep it down”
Okay! So Kelsi and I piled in the car are started driving back to reception.
The place was a maze of dirt roads…
“Is this the way we came in?” Asked Kelsi.
“I have no idea. I don’t recognize this at all. Take a right over there”
We drove round the corner and ended up on the other side of our chosen campsite.
“Oh look! There’s the boys! Dammit, we went in a circle. I’m gunna honk at them” I reached over and gave a beep on the horn. Dan and Glen looked up, confused at why we were on the other side now, and waved.
“Guess that wasn’t right” said Kels “I’m gunna take a left up here and see if we can swing back that direction. We passed some family campers, and a couple other RV’s along the way. Then I looked up and giggled.
“Look! There’s the boys again! I’m gunna honk!” I reached over and beeped the horn again.
“Oh my god!” Exclaimed Kelsi. “Did we go around AGAIN?!” We drove out and turned a couple corners. We went through three different sections of the park before coming around a familiar bend.
“This looks right! I remember this!” I said. “Oh no wait… Oh no… There’s the BOYS again!” I started laughing and beeped the horn a third time.
They looked up incredulously at us. Seriously? What are you girls doing?!
We passed the boys four more times. I was in fits of laughter. I couldn’t handle it, and I couldn’t refrain from honking the horn each time, much to the chagrin of Kelsi, who tried to stealth by a couple times.
We finally found another car and asked them the way out… We were two turns from our campsite to reception. I just about died laughing.
“You mean we only had to take two rights and we were there?!?”said Kels, also dying of laughter.
We rolled up to reception and found it closed. There was a sign: “please put your money in an envelope and a ranger will come by your campsite to pick it up”
I fell to the ground in giggles. We’d been driving for at least 20 minutes, back and forth in front of the boys what felt like 100 times, and we didn’t actually have to go anywhere!
We piled back in the car. Okay. Two turns and we should be there!
But the paths were all one way streets, and it wasn’t as easy as it looked. All of a sudden we pulled round a bend.
“Look! The boys again!” *beep*
They just threw their arms in the air at us. They were already a couple beers deep and fully dressed in their white trash outfits. How did we mess this up so much!
“You know what sucks?” I said
“What?” Said Kels
“We did this before… This is a loop. Which means the only way back is to pass them again.”
“No! NO!!” Screamed Kelsi between breathless giggles “omg, this is ridiculous!”
Sure enough, 2 minutes later I reached over and beeped the horn.
“Hey guys!!” I yelled out the window.
A couple more minutes and we were back on the proper side of our campground where we could park. I stumbled out of the car laughing… We hadn’t even had a drink and we were already this ridiculous.
“WHAT are you girls DOING?!”
We couldn’t even answer.
“Just hand us a beer”
And so the festivities began…
We dressed up in jean cut offs and plaid vests. We looked good!
We forgot playing cards, so instead used two dice to play drinking games. We played a version of Kings Cup with two dice, designating the dice numbers 2 through 12 as a challenge instead of ace through king. Seemed like a genius idea… Until we realized the game never ends. With cards, it’s 52 cards and the game is over. With dice: you just keep playing… Forever.
So we played a combination of kings and wizard sticks (where you tape each beer can to the bottom of the next until your wizard stick (or beer spear in Canada) is taller than your head. We played until Dan, at over 6 feet, won the game and the night became so dark we couldn’t see anymore.
We then found a field to watch the billions of starts in the sky. We were so far away from civilization, that the constellations were spectacular!
And then, after way too big of a day, we called it a night. Margaret River White Trash Camping: Check!
Perth
I know that Australia is a large country, and I understand that Perth is almost as far as you can get from Cairns, but I was still a little shocked at how long it took for me to go from one city to the other. With a quick stop over in Brisbane, the trip took NINE hours! Just a few short days earlier I was happy to know my long trips were over with… But in nine hours I can fly from Vancouver to London!!
Luckily, compared to any trip I took in South America, nine hours was nothing. Plus, there was no way I was coming all the way to Australia and not seeing Kelsi. So off to Perth I went!
Kelsi was lovely, and came to pick me up for the airport at half past midnight.
“OH MY GOD, YOU’RE ACTUALLY HERE!!!” She screamed as she stumbled out of the car to hug me “Seriously, part of me thought you were joking and this was all an elaborate joke. Then I’d arrive at the airport in the middle of the night and you wouldn’t actually be here!!”
I laughed. I’m glad I was actually in Perth, but man that would have been a hilarious joke. With flight numbers, and loads of people saying goodbye on Facebook, that would have been a pretty elaborate prank.
Our first morning, Kelsi picked up her friend Dan and the two of them took me on a tour of Perth. To be completely honest, they were terrible tour guides. I hope to god they never try to start their own Perth Tours company. We were lost 75% of the time and the two bickered like a married couple 100% of the time. But dammit were they entertaining! Even if the coolest thing I saw in the city was an interpretive statue of what might be a large cactus, I did spend a whole lot of time in fits of laughter. So instead of touring, we stopped at Hillary’s for a pint. Hillary’s is a beautiful little marina with a beach and lots of cafés and upscale restaurants. The place is clearly a popular place for boat to moor, and the water is a gorgeous, endless, deep blue.
After catching up over a pint of cider, we headed back towards town. We checked out the city view from Kings Park, went for lunch by the water, and ended up in Freemantle at the Norfolk.
Freemantle, or Freo, is where Kels lives. The Norfolk is the pub where she and what seemed like everyone else I met in Perth works. An adorable stone walled pub, right in the heart of Freo. Freemantle is a much more laid back suburb of Perth. The small town center has a main drag full of pubs and restaurants running along to the beach. I instantly fell in love.
After meeting Kelsi’s work mates (who had apparently already heard about me, and who constantly referred to me as Canadian Kelsi) we drove down to Dog beach to meet up with Kelsi’s roommate Mel, and her pup Boss.
When playtime at the beach was over we worked our way over to Reno’s place for my first, at home, Aussie BBQ. Chicken, steak, sausages, garlic bread and salads… I was in heaven. In fact, my mouth is watering as I remember eating the meal. Reno did a fabulous job on the BBQ while Kelsi made salads and I smashed bottles of beer on the ground (after forgetting that the box had a hole in the bottom of it…) I’m so helpful.
When bellies were full we worked our way back to the Norfolk for another pint.
I wasn’t even used to the time change in Cairns before I flew to Perth and had to adjust to another 2 hour conversion. I was dead on my feet by the time we reached home and I fell into bed. A successful and fun-filled first day in Perth, that’s for sure!
The Great Barrier Reef
My day trip to the Great Barrier Reef had finally arrived. Snorkeling the reef has been on my bucket list for as long as I can remember. It was strange to wake up in the morning and realize I would be ticking off another item in only a few short hours.
I headed to the docks at 7:30 to start my tour. The group I went with was called Passions, and they have a beautiful, 80 person Catamaran that stops at two different diving and snorkeling sites during the day. I was ecstatic!
It was pouring in Cairns that morning. Big surprise. But I’d be in the water anyways, so I figured it couldn’t be that bad. I hopped on the boat, had some coffee and a muffin and sat down to fill out my forms. I met an old English guy and a couple guys from Switzerland and joined them at the table. One of the Swiss guys had some sea sickness pills and offered them around.
“You might want these” he said to us.
Oh my god was he right. We started off and immediately you could feel the waves. It wasn’t five minutes into the trip that people were hurling off the back half of the boat in agony. Not exactly the fantastic day trip they had in mind…
But as the waves continued, the rains stopped. The sun came out, the clouds dissipated, and for the first time I really felt like it was summer in Australia!
I moved outside where I met Simon, the skipper of the boat. We sat and chatted, as he tried to convince me to come diving with him instead of snorkeling.
“C’mon, I promise I’ll hold your hand the entire time!”
I would love to go diving. But my already tight budget simply wouldn’t allow it. The day trip itself was $160, and to dive was an additional $70. When I booked the tour at the hostel I asked the staff what they thought.
“Diving is amazing!” They said “One of the greatest experiences ever! But where you’re going the reef is shallow, you’ll probably see more things snorkeling”
Cheaper and the chance to see more? Sounds perfect. I let Simon down easy…
“Sorry, you’ll have to hold someone else’s hand for the day. I just can’t afford it!”
It took 2 hours to get to our first dive site. We were just off the coast of a small, sandy island in the middle of nowhere. The sun was shining and the water was an incredible turquoise.
We got our stinger suits on, lined up for flippers and masks and headed in to the water. The stinger suits were worth every penny of the $8 they cost for the day. Not only was it stinger season in Cairns, but the suits protected against the sun as well. Something much needed for my winter skin.
The whole way up the coast to Cape Trib I’d been told about the stingers in the water. During this time, right as the rains start in the summer season, the waters fill up with deadly jellyfish. If you’re going to swim off the beach, there better be stinger nets up. Unfortunately, the most deadly of the stingers, the Irukandji, is so small, it’s almost invisible while swimming. The size of one’s pinky finger nail, the Irukandji sting causes excruciating pain… It also can fit through stinger nets.
These stingers are of course a little less common way out on the reef. Nonetheless, I wore a suit, and so did 90% of the people I was with.
All suited up, I leaped into the water. The second I got under water I ran into two huge purple jellyfish. I jumped back a little, not sure if they stung or not, and not quite trusting the ultra thin suit I was wearing. Turns out, they were moon jellies, and totally harmless… Which is a good thing, because I literally bumped in to about 200 of them over the course of the day.
The reef was stunning. As is to be expected from the Great Barrier Reef. But I was glad to find out that it did not disappoint. Huge angel fish, clown fish, parrot fish, and thousands of other species I could never name. The coral was huge and endless over the white sand. It’s difficult to explain, but I was overwhelmed everywhere I looked!
Maybe it was the tour, or the day, but the best thing about the trip was how alone I was. No crowds, or bumping into other swimmers, it was just me, the reef, and hundreds of damn moon jellies (Which, even when I found out they were harmless, were still a little scary to bump in to).
Part way through my first snorkeling stop I spied a massive sea turtle just cruising through the coral. I popped up out of the water to tell others to come see, but found myself alone. So I just casually followed him around for the next ten minutes or so, until he swam away from the reef and out into the sea. I can’t say I’ve ever seen a sea turtle that close before, and certainly not for that long! The turtle was very unphased at being so close to a human, and just kept swimming at a leisurely pace the whole time.
After an hour and a half we came back to the boat. It was only 15 minutes or so to our next stop, but we had a big buffet lunch before continuing on.
The next snorkeling drop off was equally as amazing. But at this stop, we saw a massive parrot fish. I had hardly dropped into the water when I first spotted it. The thing was huge. Probably close to 4 feet long! It was a little too low on the reef for me, but the divers below me were so close they could reach out and touch it. The fish hung out with them for quite a while, letting the group feed and play with it. The second stop we had about 45 minutes to check out the area. Still, I could have spent hours.
When all was over and done with we started our trek back. Normally, the catamaran sails back to Cairns, but with the weather in town, we had to motor. It was a much calmer, 2 hour trek home (thank god). We arrived back in the pouring rain at 5:15. Cairns had apparently seen no sunshine all day. Great day to choose a trip to the reef!!
Roo Barbecue
I spent most of the next day exploring Cairns and avoiding the rains. It seems that the rains just refused to stop for my entire stay in the city. Luckily, I’m from Vancouver, so a downpour doesn’t stop me from exploring.
Cairns, even in the rain, is a cute little town. Although there is no beach, that hasn’t stopped the locals from enjoying the waterfront. A long boardwalk curves along the edge of the city, and a man-made lagoon, fully equipped with faux-sand beaches, sits right in the center of it all. This is where locals and tourists alike come to enjoy a swim, have picnics or just lounge in the sun… If there is any.
The lagoon sits right between the ocean and the Esplanade. The Esplanade is the bustling front of Cairns’ 4-squared block city center. It’s lined with cafés and hostels and restaurants of all kinds. I parked myself on the covered patio of a little cafe, ordered a flat white and half read / half people watched the morning away.
The food and drinks in Cairns are pricey. (Although not quite as much as Perth as I have recently found out). I knew I was going to experience sticker shock, but it still caught me by surprise. One could easily spend 35 – 40 dollars on lunch and a beer in Cairns. I opted for buying a coffee and eating makeshift sandwiches from the supermarket.
To be fair, the weather did clear up enough to give me five minutes or so of Sunshine by the lagoon. I walked the length of the boardwalk, had some lunch, did some more reading, and ambled my way back to the hostel to prepare for dinner.
It was the famous Tropic Days BBQ night at the hostel. For $12, the staff cook up a ridiculous amount of Australian meats for the out of town backpackers to enjoy. That night’s meal consisted of Kangaroo, Emu, Crocodile, Sausages and some local fish. On top of that, there were salads and bread and all sorts of sauces to go with! Apparently, in 15 years, they have never run out of food.
“Come up for seconds, thirds, fourths… I promise you’ll never finish it all” said Gabriel, the owner of the hostel.
The food was sensational! I had to try the Kangaroo and Emu three times just to decide which on I liked better. In the end, I deemed it a tie.
Everyone I ate with had similar opinions, and most of us hadn’t tried kangaroo before. Before long we got to chatting about the strangest food we’d eaten over the years. I realized my list was quite extensive after 6 years of traveling around. I’d tried pretty much everything that was thrown at me over the years.
“Have you ever eaten ants?” Asked Paul, one of the guys in my newest group of friends.
“Actually no.” I replied, “Although I did hear in Laos that there were these strange lemon flavored ants that exist. We tried to find them but never came across them” I had to laugh as I remembered my buddy Tadd eating random ants he found on the ground in hopes of picking up a lemon flavoured one.
“Yeah! I’ve had them!” Said Paul.
Turns out, Australia has them too. It also turns out, that Paul loved them, found a nest of them in the forest, took it back to the hostel and has been cooking with them for days.
“You want one?” He asked.
Oh hell yes I do. Any excuse to try weird foods.
Before I knew it, the six of us were staring at a bowl full of big, flying ants with huge greenish yellow bottoms. Paul ripped off the wings and the head and handed me the bottom.
“Here you go!” He said.
I took the ant and, much to the disgust of the onlooking boys, threw it in my mouth. It make a weird popping sound and squished as I ate it, but the thing wasn’t half bad.
“I don’t know if I would describe the taste as lemon flavoured” I said “but it’s not bad”
“Well you should try it in tea!” He said.
So we brewed some ants in boiling water and made a tea. And you know what? It tasted just like a sweet lemon tea. I could have SWORN that there was sugar in it, except that I had watched Paul make it. It was simply delicious!
Once we’d tried the tea, we convinced Natalie to have an ant.
“C’mon Natalie, think of the story! You’ve gotta try it!” And she did! And that meant the battle was on. The only two girls had done it and now the boys has to man up. Some did, some refused, but in the end we had some great laughs.
Just as the ants were losing their novelty, Gabriel announced we were having a musical competition. Fabulous. I’m musically inept. This should be fun.
Luckily, only 3 of the 40 or so people would be competing.
“Okay!” Said Gabriel “I’m going to choose some competitors to play the didgeridoo!”
He scanned the crowd, looked down and me and grinned.
“Hilary, why don’t you come up and play this for us!”
Damn.
Surprisingly, I’ve actually played the didgeridoo before. Way back in Elementary school for a play we’d put on. I wasn’t good. But at least I could make the sound!
Turns out, I still kind of remember how to do it.
Natalie was another victim, and a girl from Taiwan. The three of us, standing there in front of the other 40 people we were living with, looking like fools. Well this won’t be embarrassing!
It was a good half hour competition. More of Gabriel making jokes than us performing, but he had us all in stitches. Innuendos, flat out making fun of us, and tangent stories that had nothing to do with anything. I think everyone had a great time.
In the end I ended up winning a $100 voucher for the Minjin Swing. Similar to the Gorge Swing in Zimbabwe, the Minjin Swing sends you flying through the jungle, face first, at warp speeds. Yup, I’m in!
Natalie won wake boarding lessons for two and the Taiwanese girl won a highly sought after Tropic Days T-shirt. Everyone was a winner because we were all so incredible… Haha yeah right.
After that the BBQ was over, some people stayed for more drinks, others headed to the Woolshed for some table dancing, and others to bed. I had to be up again in 7 hours for my reef tour, so it was bedtime for me. But overall, a successful evening of trying new things!
(To note: when I went to book the Minjin swing later, everything was booked up. I was a little upset, but made Gabriel promise he would pass it along to a worthy adversary! Next time!)











































